Tips To Better Reptile Handling
Some reptiles are very tolerant of handling, and others should not be handled unless it’s necessary for husbandry or health. These concerns should be addressed before a rhythmic pattern of interaction can be established.
Respect
Herps are in captivity for our enjoyment, and we owe them every ounce of respect we have to make their lives as pleasant as possible. For us this means that if we are not 100 percent comfortable and confident with the animal we are working with, then we should gain the knowledge with a smaller specimen, a less difficult species to maintain, a less aggressive similar species, or work with the species under the supervision of an experienced herpetoculturist
It can also mean starting with reptiles in our budget regarding three key areas: housing, husbandry and acquisition. Always try to buy the best housing and husbandry tools you can afford first and then figure out what animals fit within your budget. Too often the opposite happens, and the animal suffers.
If you address these primary points from the start, your reptile will be happier in the long run, and you will be, too. This creates a more positive interaction on a daily basis, which undoubtedly creates a platform for the best possible relationship with your pet.
Confidence Counts
This is key for herpkeepers of all levels. Confidence leads to acute decisions. Acute, confident interaction eliminates fearful jerking of your body, hesitant approaches, and timid assessments of husbandry and health.
HOW A SNAKE BREATHES WHILE IT EATS
Just because they work for a conservation board doesn’t mean that naturalists know everything
She wasn’t sure what the hole was, so we started to research it — the best way to answer a question that you have — and found out the hole in the bottom of a snake’s mouth is a glottis.
Snakes have nostrils, just like humans, and they breathe through them and use them to smell. However, their best sense of smell comes from using their tongue, and they can also breathe through their mouths, like humans, by using their glottis.
The glottis is the opening in the bottom of a snake’s mouth that is kept closed except when inhaling. It is connected to the trachea, or windpipe, which lets the air that is inhaled fill its lungs.
The glottis is extremely helpful, because when a snake is eating, it can move its glottis off to the side so that its prey does not prevent it from opening and allows the snake to still breath while it is eating. It’s like chewing with your mouth open — it’s bad manners for people, but not for snakes!
Corn Snake
Natural History
Corn snakes are a very commonly kept pet snake originally from the southern states in the USA. They were given their name because they were commonly found hunting mice in corn stores. They are considered harmless to humans and have a very important role in controlling rodent populations particularly around farms.
Corn snakes are probably the most popular pet snake in the UK and have been kept and bred for decades. Originally they were red/orange and brown but they have since been selectively bred for a range of pattern and colour combinations. While they can get quite long they remain slim and easy to handle. They generally have a very passive attitude making them a great choice for first time keepers.
Housing
Corn snakes come from a warm environment so they struggle with the cold and humidity of the UK. To insulate against both of these factors we recommend keeping the snake in a wooden vivarium. Due to the temperature gradient required we would normally select an enclosure a minimum of 3 x 2 x 2ft with large vents and glass sliding front doors.
Corn snakes can be a little shy when they are young. We still use the full size enclosure to make sure that the correct temperature gradient is in place but we will provide more decorations to begin with.
Heating
Naturally, corn snakes would be experiencing temperatures of around 90of in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the enclosure while letting the rest of the enclosure cool to 70of on the opposite side. To achieve this we attach a basking lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to make sure that the temperature is kept correct throughout the day. Corn snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard. The basking lamp is left on for 10-12 hours per day.
Snakes
The skin of an animal is a complex organ which periodically undergoes renewal. The old dead layers of cells must come off to make room for the new layers of cells formed underneath. In people, tiny, almost invisible pieces of old dead skin come off with every bath. A person with a cast on a broken arm or leg cannot bathe the area under the cast and, as a result, finds a thick layer of dead skin built up when the cast is removed. Amphibians and reptiles shed layers of old, dead skin in large, visible pieces, some molting the entire old skin in one piece. This process is called ecdysis. Ecdysis is natural for the renewal of skin but is not necessary to allow growth, as it is in arthropods and crustaceans. Occasionally problems develop during the process of shedding. This page will discuss normal shedding as well as symptoms of abnormal shedding and its treatment.
Snakes normally shed their skin in one piece. This may occur from 4 to 12 times a year, with young, rapidly growing snakes shedding more frequently. Snakes lack eyelids, and instead have a clear scale called the spectacle to cover and protect the eye. During ecdysis the dead outer layer of the spectacle is shed. The lining of the heat-sensitive pits on the face of certain boas, pythons, and pit vipers, and the outer layer of the spurs on boas and pythons are also shed at the same time as the skin. The dead layer of skin from the points of the forked tongue is shed periodically at other times than the rest of the skin. These tongue sloughs are the length of one fork of the tongue, pointed on one end and flat on the other, and appear somewhat worm-like. They are usually found in the water bowl but may be seen elsewhere in the cage.
As a snake approaches ecdysis, the skin pattern becomes dull and dark. A milky appearance is seen on the belly scutes of some species and the spectacles become milky white, obscuring vision. A snake in this condition is said to be “opaque,” “pre-shed, or pre-ecdysis.” During this time the old layer of skin is fragile and tears easily, but the new skin underneath isn’t mature yet. To avoid damage and possible scarring, handling should be avoided and care should be taken to be gentle if handling becomes necessary. Opaque snakes normally become inactive and hide, are quite irritable, and refuse to eat. A snake typically remains opaque for about 4 to 7 days after which the eyes become clear and actual shedding takes place 4 to 7 days after that. Snakes shed by rubbing their nose and face against objects in the cage. As the skin comes loose it peels back over the head and neck, turning inside Out as the snake crawls out of it. The skin normally comes off in one piece. Placing a rock, brick, branch, or log in the cage may assist the snake by giving it something rough against which it can rub, but most snakes in plain cages seem to have no trouble shedding their skin.
If the skin fails to come off in one piece the condition is called dysecdysis. A snake with dysecdysis should be soaked in shallow lukewarm water for 30 to 60 minutes, and then all the remaining dead skin should be manually removed. Snakes can drown when confined in a container with deep water, so exercise caution. An alternative to soaking is to confine the affected snake overnight in a thoroughly wetted cloth bag.
All shed skins should be inspected to make sure the spectacles came off with the rest of the skin. Retained spectacles should be removed by gentle rubbing with a cotton swab after soaking or bagging as above. Inexperienced people should never try to remove the spectacles with forceps since sometimes the entire spectacle, rather than just the dead layer is inadvertently removed. This causes corneal exposure and can cause blindness. Sometimes the last half inch of skin on the tail tip fails to come off. If left on, it will shrink as it dries, cutting off the blood supply to the tail tip which then dries up and falls off. This piece of skin should also be gently removed after soaking.
Is A Pet Snake Right For You?
A pet snake can be a wonderful companion, but choosing to keep one should not be taken lightly. Contrary to popular belief, they are not cold or slimy and most varieties aren’t dangerous. They are easy to keep in small spaces, as their lifestyle doesn’t require a lot of exercise. Snakes are quiet and you don’t have to take time out of your day to walk them or clean up an excessive amount of excrement. If you are squeamish however, their dietary needs may be a deal breaker. Pet snakes are great for the right family – as long as you are willing to meet some of their more unsavory requirements
Reading about and understanding the requirements of owning a pet snake is the first step to a successful relationship with your pet. Decide what type of snake you would like to own, and then do as much research as you can before bringing one home. Common types of pet snakes for the first-time owner include ball pythons, king snakes, gopher snakes, garter snakes and corn snakes. Most of these snakes stay relatively small, growing to about 4 or 5 feet at the largest. These species tend to be gentle and don’t mind being handled. Poisonous or other dangerous snakes should be avoided by all but the most experienced snake enthusiast, and even then liability issues make these kinds of snakes a poor choice. Most snakes can live a very long time in captivity, so be aware of this when you are choosing one for your home. King snakes can live about 20 years, while ball pythons have been known to live as long as 40 years. While some of the housing requirements are similar for most kinds of snakes, their temperature and dietary requirements can be very different.
Housing Your Pet Snake
Before you bring home your new pet, you should have the enclosure ready to go. It should be big enough to house a grown snake, and may take up a large corner of the room. Most pet snake owners opt for a large glass aquarium or Plexiglas enclosure with a tight mesh top. Pet snakes make Houdini look like an amateur and can escape through tiny holes in a wire cage, so you need to make sure that it is secure. Glass or Plexiglas also makes it easier to regulate the temperature in the enclosure so that your snake will stay healthy.
The snake needs to have some sort of bedding material in the bottom of the enclosure. Materials such as butcher paper, newspaper, terrycloth towels are good materials; indoor or outdoor carpet is ideal because the material is safe and easy to clean. Pea gravel or wood chips may look nicer but can harbor bacteria that could be ingested when the snake eats, causing intestinal problems. A pet snake also needs a private area in order to feed well and feel secure. A hollow overturned log, a wooden box with a hole in the front or even just a large silk plant will work nicely. They need to have something to climb on, so clean branches from the pet store or shelves are a must to keep your pet occupied. Just make sure that they can’t open the top of the enclosure as they are exercising.
Pet snakes also need a higher temperature than you are probably used to keeping in your home. Most tropical snakes need a temperature between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 70 to 75 degrees at night. American snakes like a constant temperature of between 70 and 80 degrees. You can keep a heating pad under one side of the enclosure or use a heat lamp to achieve this temperature, but make sure that there is a “cool” side of your snake’s home to escape to if they get too warm. Most snake experts warn against keeping heating elements such as rocks inside the enclosure as the snake can easily overheat or get burned. The snake’s enclosure should get about 10 to 12 hours of daylight and 12 to 14 hours of darkness each day. A location where they can get some unfiltered natural sunlight is ideal.