Things You Can Do to Control Flying Wasps

Gardening: How to get rid of wasps nesting in the lawn

Q: Not sure you are able to help us, but for the last three to four years we have had ground hornets nesting in the lawn. This year seems exceptionally bad. They come late July and dig, and are usually gone in September. Is there any reason they are infesting our lawn? Is there anything we can do? We did try a spray down the tunnel, but they just seem to move to another area. I do not see them in the neighbors’ yards.

A: The first step is to determine what insect you are dealing with. There are two common ground-dwelling predatory wasps around here. The first is the ground digger wasp or cicada killer wasp (Schecies speciosus). They are large (about 2-inches long) black and yellow insects. These insects are generally safe to leave alone unless the nest is in a high-traffic area.

The bees nest in bare soil, so plant something — grass, ground cover, for example to eliminate potential nesting sites. These insects are solitary. The females spend their time digging small burrows and stocking them with paralyzed cicadas, which is food for their larvae.

Look for their nests in a sunny spot with loose, well-drained soil, usually near trees, potential hunting grounds for cicadas. While the females do sting, they are very tolerant and will not attack unless they feel threatened. The males are stingless but territorial. Expect them to fly around you, even bumping into you when you encroach on their territory.

The second possibility is a very aggressive type of wasp. These are less than an inch long and are commonly called yellow jackets (Vespula sp.). While these are also considered beneficial as they eat other insects, they are attracted to other sources of meat like your grilling steaks or your pet’s food dish. Yellow jackets also are dangerous because each insect can sting multiple times, and there can be hundreds of wasps in the nest.

Only the mated queens survive the winter. They look for holes in the soil, leaf litter, compost piles, cavities in dead logs or stumps, under loose bark or even in the siding of your home. The queens stay protected from November until warm weather in the following April. The queens emerge and look for a good nesting site.

How to get rid of wasps

Learn how to get rid of wasp and hornet nests safely, and stop insects from building them in the first place.

Wasps are frightening creatures and they can put a damper on outdoor activities. However, not all of these creatures sting and some of them are beneficial to our ecosystem. Without them acting as our natural pest control, our world would be swamped by insects.

What are the differences between wasps and bees?

Though both bees and wasps share similar physical characteristics, they are actually quite different in shape and size. Wasps have a narrow waist that connects their thorax to their abdomen, whereas bees are rounder and their bodies are made up of only one section.

Another way to distinguish them is to see if there’s any hair on them. Bees are hairy and wasps are hairless in comparison. You can also determine the creature by observing the types of diet they consume. Wasps feed on insects while bees feed only on pollen.

What do wasps look like?

Wasps can grow up to three to four cm long, but their size varies from species to species. However, they do share similar characteristics like having a pair of wings, a pair of antennae and six legs. Only the female species have stingers and their stings contain venom.

How to Get Rid of a Wasp’s Nest

Having a wasp’s nest in or around your home is an unpleasant situation to be in, especially if you have small children or somebody with an allergy to wasp stings. Your best bet is to call an exterminator, but if this isn’t an option and you’re not allergic to stings, you can likely take care of the problem yourself. To get rid of wasp’s nest, wear protective clothing, approach the nest at night when the wasps are less active, and thoroughly douse the nest in an approved pesticide spray, insecticidal dust, smoke, or water. Afterwards, you should take measures to also prevent wasps from returning in the future.

Ensure that you are not allergic to wasp stings. If you’re not sure whether you have an allergy to wasp stings or not, it’s a good idea to set up an allergy test with your doctor before you attempt to tackle the nest.

Contact your local vector control district. Though not available everywhere, vector control deals with disease-carrying or potentially dangerous insects and animals (vectors). These professionals can help you with identification, advise you on what to do, and may even remove the wasps for you

Call an exterminator. In most situations, it’s best to leave nest removal to the professionals. If there is no vector control district or they are unable to come remove the nest, try an exterminator instead. This is especially true if you have ground-nesting yellow jackets

Consider leaving the nest alone. If the wasps’ nest is far enough away from your house that it doesn’t pose a significant threat, you should consider leaving it alone, especially if it belongs to a less aggressive wasp species such as the paper wasp. Wasps are an important part of the ecosystem, as they pollinate plants and flowers and eat other garden pests such as caterpillars.

How to Get Rid of Wasps Around the House Naturally

There’s nothing worse than trying to enjoy the sunshine on a nice summer’s day only to hear threatening buzzing noises in your ear. While there are some buzzing insects that are more obnoxious than dangerous, wasps and yellow jackets are forces to be reckoned with. But how can you get rid of flying insects without introducing harmful products into your space?

Pest Control specializes in environmentally friendly pest control, including eliminating the threat of wasps, hornets, yellow jackets, and bees.

How Do You Keep Wasps Away from Your House?

The easiest way to deter wasps from hanging around in your yard is to keep them from nesting around your home. You can take the following steps to help reduce the likelihood of wasps nesting near your home:

Keep doors and windows shut

Take trash out regularly

Pot or plant wasp-repelling plants around the deck or yard

Seal garbage cans

Cover compost piles

Cover holes in the ground

What Smell Do Wasps Dislike?

Wasps have a large sense of smell and typically dislike more fragrant plants, including many herbs. There are several smells that wasps can’t stand, which can give you a leg up in your fight against the buzzing insects. Looking for some fragrant plants that pull double duty in smelling great and helping to deter wasps and hornets?

How Do You Get Rid of a Wasp Nest Without Harmful Substances?

While the best method to keep wasps away is to prevent them from building a nest in the first place, it’s possible to get rid of a wasp nest without using harsh products. But just getting rid of the wasp nest isn’t enough to resolve the issue; surviving wasps will return to reconstruct it. To ensure all the wasps are eliminated and therefore unable to come back, it’s best to treat the wasp nest at night while all the insects, including the queen, are present and far less aggressive than during the day.

How To Get Rid Of Paper Wasps

you may have reason for concern. Those are paper wasps and while they are fairly docile when they are away from their nests, they can become extremely aggressive when they are protecting a nest. If paper wasps have established a nest on your property, it can present a threat. That is why it is best to get rid of paper wasps right away. There is only one way to do this. That’s what we’re going to talk about today.

Nest Detection

The first step is to notice wasps nests as they begin to form. This has two components. You need to know what developing nests look like and you need to know where to look for them.

What Paper Wasp Nests Look Like — You may already know what a paper wasp nest looks like. These are common insects in the Dallas area. But you might not recognize a nest as it is forming. At first, it is only a small gray, umbrella shape, with hexagonal compartments inside. Once it is fully formed, it will be the shape of a strawberry.

Where You Can Find Wasp Nests — You may know this one as well. Paper wasps create their aerial nests in sheltered locations on, and around, man-made structures. Perhaps you’ve seen one under a roofline, on the ceiling of a porch, or under a deck, porch, or patio. These are only some of the many locations they build nests. The key to finding them is to look up. When you get under your deck to search for a nest, you need to look up. These insects get into the “rafters” of low lying structures as readily as they do the rafters of a barn.

Nest Removal

Once you’ve found a nest, it needs to be removed. If it is just a little starter nest, and there are no wasps present on the surface, you may be able to just brush it away with a broom. Do a quick inspection of the area and make sure there are no wasps nearby. If the nest has developed to a point where you are unable to see all the hexagonal chambers, there could be wasps inside that you can’t see. Removing these nests can be hazardous.

A few things to consider about DIY wasp nest removal:

Selecting the wrong product to spray a wasps’ nest can be hazardous.

Inappropriate application of wasp sprays can be toxic.

Climbing a ladder to spray a wasps nest can result in a fall.

Getting into a closed space with a wasps’ nests is a bad idea.

When you have a licensed and insured pest professional take care of wasp nests, you don’t have to worry about injury. You also don’t have to worry about the wrong methods or products being used to address the threat.

Professional Wasp Control and Nest Removal

Life gets busy. Who has time to be looking for developing wasps nests? There’s work, school, sporting events, recitals, family reunions, birthday parties—the list goes on and on. But you don’t have to think about nest detection when you have residential pest control

How To Take Care Of Snake

Tips To Better Reptile Handling

Some reptiles are very tolerant of handling, and others should not be handled unless it’s necessary for husbandry or health. These concerns should be addressed before a rhythmic pattern of interaction can be established.

Respect             

Herps are in captivity for our enjoyment, and we owe them every ounce of respect we have to make their lives as pleasant as possible. For us this means that if we are not 100 percent comfortable and confident with the animal we are working with, then we should gain the knowledge with a smaller specimen, a less difficult species to maintain, a less aggressive similar species, or work with the species under the supervision of an experienced herpetoculturist

It can also mean starting with reptiles in our budget regarding three key areas: housing, husbandry and acquisition. Always try to buy the best housing and husbandry tools you can afford first and then figure out what animals fit within your budget. Too often the opposite happens, and the animal suffers.

If you address these primary points from the start, your reptile will be happier in the long run, and you will be, too. This creates a more positive interaction on a daily basis, which undoubtedly creates a platform for the best possible relationship with your pet.

Confidence Counts

This is key for herpkeepers of all levels. Confidence leads to acute decisions. Acute, confident interaction eliminates fearful jerking of your body, hesitant approaches, and timid assessments of husbandry and health.

HOW A SNAKE BREATHES WHILE IT EATS

Just because they work for a conservation board doesn’t mean that naturalists know everything

She wasn’t sure what the hole was, so we started to research it — the best way to answer a question that you have — and found out the hole in the bottom of a snake’s mouth is a glottis.

Snakes have nostrils, just like humans, and they breathe through them and use them to smell. However, their best sense of smell comes from using their tongue, and they can also breathe through their mouths, like humans, by using their glottis.

The glottis is the opening in the bottom of a snake’s mouth that is kept closed except when inhaling. It is connected to the trachea, or windpipe, which lets the air that is inhaled fill its lungs.

The glottis is extremely helpful, because when a snake is eating, it can move its glottis off to the side so that its prey does not prevent it from opening and allows the snake to still breath while it is eating. It’s like chewing with your mouth open — it’s bad manners for people, but not for snakes!

Corn Snake

Natural History

Corn snakes are a very commonly kept pet snake originally from the southern states in the USA. They were given their name because they were commonly found hunting mice in corn stores. They are considered harmless to humans and have a very important role in controlling rodent populations particularly around farms.

Corn snakes are probably the most popular pet snake in the UK and have been kept and bred for decades. Originally they were red/orange and brown but they have since been selectively bred for a range of pattern and colour combinations. While they can get quite long they remain slim and easy to handle. They generally have a very passive attitude making them a great choice for first time keepers.

Housing

Corn snakes come from a warm environment so they struggle with the cold and humidity of the UK. To insulate against both of these factors we recommend keeping the snake in a wooden vivarium. Due to the temperature gradient required we would normally select an enclosure a minimum of 3 x 2 x 2ft with large vents and glass sliding front doors.

Corn snakes can be a little shy when they are young. We still use the full size enclosure to make sure that the correct temperature gradient is in place but we will provide more decorations to begin with.

Heating

Naturally, corn snakes would be experiencing temperatures of around 90of in the sun. We try to provide this heat over 1/3 of the enclosure while letting the rest of the enclosure cool to 70of on the opposite side. To achieve this we attach a basking lamp to the ceiling of the enclosure on one side. This is controlled by a dimming thermostat to make sure that the temperature is kept correct throughout the day. Corn snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard. The basking lamp is left on for 10-12 hours per day.

Snakes

The skin of an animal is a complex organ which periodically undergoes renewal. The old dead layers of cells must come off to make room for the new layers of cells formed underneath. In people, tiny, almost invisible pieces of old dead skin come off with every bath. A person with a cast on a broken arm or leg cannot bathe the area under the cast and, as a result, finds a thick layer of dead skin built up when the cast is removed. Amphibians and reptiles shed layers of old, dead skin in large, visible pieces, some molting the entire old skin in one piece. This process is called ecdysis. Ecdysis is natural for the renewal of skin but is not necessary to allow growth, as it is in arthropods and crustaceans. Occasionally problems develop during the process of shedding. This page will discuss normal shedding as well as symptoms of abnormal shedding and its treatment.

Snakes normally shed their skin in one piece. This may occur from 4 to 12 times a year, with young, rapidly growing snakes shedding more frequently. Snakes lack eyelids, and instead have a clear scale called the spectacle to cover and protect the eye. During ecdysis the dead outer layer of the spectacle is shed. The lining of the heat-sensitive pits on the face of certain boas, pythons, and pit vipers, and the outer layer of the spurs on boas and pythons are also shed at the same time as the skin. The dead layer of skin from the points of the forked tongue is shed periodically at other times than the rest of the skin. These tongue sloughs are the length of one fork of the tongue, pointed on one end and flat on the other, and appear somewhat worm-like. They are usually found in the water bowl but may be seen elsewhere in the cage.

As a snake approaches ecdysis, the skin pattern becomes dull and dark. A milky appearance is seen on the belly scutes of some species and the spectacles become milky white, obscuring vision. A snake in this condition is said to be “opaque,” “pre-shed, or pre-ecdysis.” During this time the old layer of skin is fragile and tears easily, but the new skin underneath isn’t mature yet. To avoid damage and possible scarring, handling should be avoided and care should be taken to be gentle if handling becomes necessary. Opaque snakes normally become inactive and hide, are quite irritable, and refuse to eat. A snake typically remains opaque for about 4 to 7 days after which the eyes become clear and actual shedding takes place 4 to 7 days after that. Snakes shed by rubbing their nose and face against objects in the cage. As the skin comes loose it peels back over the head and neck, turning inside Out as the snake crawls out of it. The skin normally comes off in one piece. Placing a rock, brick, branch, or log in the cage may assist the snake by giving it something rough against which it can rub, but most snakes in plain cages seem to have no trouble shedding their skin.

If the skin fails to come off in one piece the condition is called dysecdysis. A snake with dysecdysis should be soaked in shallow lukewarm water for 30 to 60 minutes, and then all the remaining dead skin should be manually removed. Snakes can drown when confined in a container with deep water, so exercise caution. An alternative to soaking is to confine the affected snake overnight in a thoroughly wetted cloth bag.

All shed skins should be inspected to make sure the spectacles came off with the rest of the skin. Retained spectacles should be removed by gentle rubbing with a cotton swab after soaking or bagging as above. Inexperienced people should never try to remove the spectacles with forceps since sometimes the entire spectacle, rather than just the dead layer is inadvertently removed. This causes corneal exposure and can cause blindness. Sometimes the last half inch of skin on the tail tip fails to come off. If left on, it will shrink as it dries, cutting off the blood supply to the tail tip which then dries up and falls off. This piece of skin should also be gently removed after soaking.

Is A Pet Snake Right For You?

A pet snake can be a wonderful companion, but choosing to keep one should not be taken lightly. Contrary to popular belief, they are not cold or slimy and most varieties aren’t dangerous. They are easy to keep in small spaces, as their lifestyle doesn’t require a lot of exercise. Snakes are quiet and you don’t have to take time out of your day to walk them or clean up an excessive amount of excrement. If you are squeamish however, their dietary needs may be a deal breaker. Pet snakes are great for the right family – as long as you are willing to meet some of their more unsavory requirements

Reading about and understanding the requirements of owning a pet snake is the first step to a successful relationship with your pet. Decide what type of snake you would like to own, and then do as much research as you can before bringing one home. Common types of pet snakes for the first-time owner include ball pythons, king snakes, gopher snakes, garter snakes and corn snakes. Most of these snakes stay relatively small, growing to about 4 or 5 feet at the largest. These species tend to be gentle and don’t mind being handled. Poisonous or other dangerous snakes should be avoided by all but the most experienced snake enthusiast, and even then liability issues make these kinds of snakes a poor choice. Most snakes can live a very long time in captivity, so be aware of this when you are choosing one for your home. King snakes can live about 20 years, while ball pythons have been known to live as long as 40 years. While some of the housing requirements are similar for most kinds of snakes, their temperature and dietary requirements can be very different.

Housing Your Pet Snake

Before you bring home your new pet, you should have the enclosure ready to go. It should be big enough to house a grown snake, and may take up a large corner of the room. Most pet snake owners opt for a large glass aquarium or Plexiglas enclosure with a tight mesh top. Pet snakes make Houdini look like an amateur and can escape through tiny holes in a wire cage, so you need to make sure that it is secure. Glass or Plexiglas also makes it easier to regulate the temperature in the enclosure so that your snake will stay healthy.

The snake needs to have some sort of bedding material in the bottom of the enclosure. Materials such as butcher paper, newspaper, terrycloth towels are good materials; indoor or outdoor carpet is ideal because the material is safe and easy to clean. Pea gravel or wood chips may look nicer but can harbor bacteria that could be ingested when the snake eats, causing intestinal problems. A pet snake also needs a private area in order to feed well and feel secure. A hollow overturned log, a wooden box with a hole in the front or even just a large silk plant will work nicely. They need to have something to climb on, so clean branches from the pet store or shelves are a must to keep your pet occupied. Just make sure that they can’t open the top of the enclosure as they are exercising.

Pet snakes also need a higher temperature than you are probably used to keeping in your home. Most tropical snakes need a temperature between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 70 to 75 degrees at night. American snakes like a constant temperature of between 70 and 80 degrees. You can keep a heating pad under one side of the enclosure or use a heat lamp to achieve this temperature, but make sure that there is a “cool” side of your snake’s home to escape to if they get too warm. Most snake experts warn against keeping heating elements such as rocks inside the enclosure as the snake can easily overheat or get burned. The snake’s enclosure should get about 10 to 12 hours of daylight and 12 to 14 hours of darkness each day. A location where they can get some unfiltered natural sunlight is ideal.